Hurricane Michael

Hurricane Michael is the fourth most powerful storm on record to hit the U.S., and the worst since Hurricane Camille in 1969. It is also the first Category 4 hurricane to ever make landfall on the Florida Panhandle, and “the worst storm” that area has ever seen, according to Florida Gov. Rick Scott. Michael then barreled into the Carolinas, dumping over 9 inches of rain in North Carolina where residents are still reeling from historic flooding left by Hurricane Florence last month.

The Carolinas were followed by Virginia, where the weakened storm still wreaked havoc, flooding roads and downing power lines. There were five deaths in Virginia, four of which were from drowning, state officials said. The fifth death in the state was Lt. Brad Clark, a Hanover County firefighter, who was killed while helping at the scene of a car crash Thursday, according to Hanover Fire-EMS and Virginia State Police.

By the time this storm made its way into our community, it was still packing 60 mph wind gusts. We lost power in Glebe Harbor & Cabin Point from around 10pm on Thursday, October 11th, 2018 till Sunday afternoon around 12:20pm.

This prompted me to take steps to install a Whole House Power Transfer Switch as well as purchasing a 6250 watt generator.

After I apply for an electrical permit to install the replay switch this week, I will post the procedure on how others in our community can do the same thing.

This will allow me to supply our home with power and make sure that no electricity will feedback on the main power lines, that could cause a danger to anyone working on our local power grid. The photos below show some of the damage our communities received during Hurricane Michael.

UPDATE: 12/15/2018. You can view the pictures below the damage photos from our communities, to see the procedure I used for installing a whole house Power Switch. I am not a licensed electrician and I will not accept any offers to install this system for you. However, I can guide you through the process, free of charge.

WARNING: if you are not comfortable working with electricity, DO NOT attempt to install this switch yourself!

The pictures below represent the stages I used, when I installed this switch. The first thing you need to do is read the directions and see what they recommend for the distance between your electrical panel, and where you need to install the switch.

In my case, it was within 24 inches. I turned the main power off to the house, using the main breakers inside my electrical box. I then removed the cover/door to my panel. WARNING! Even though you switch the main breakers off inside most electrical panels, there is still power that is live inside your main electrical panel box that is supplied by your local power grid.

The second thing I did was marked out the two studs next to my panel box using a standard stud finder. I taped the power switch template at the location between the two studs and CAREFULLY removed the drywall, going very slow as to not cut through any electrical wires that may be behind this area.I was very careful when cutting the drywall, as it would be used to fit back into, the area it was removed from. This will make finishing the project, very easy.

I then cut a 2×4 that was used to mount the power switch to the stud that was already there, when the house was original built. I then wired the switch according to the directions while paying attention to Westmoreland County Code. After this was done, I called Westmoreland County to have an electrical inspection done. YOU MUST DO THIS BEFORE YOU CLOSE THE WALL BACK UP!

After the inspection was done and approved, I then cut 1x4s to fit in-between the drywall that was removed and the drywall that was left in place. I then re-installed the drywall, paying careful attention, to when it was removed from and secured it using drywall screws.

Then it was just a matter of blocking the drywall tape and finishing it off with two more coats of drywall mud. Once it was dry, it was lightly sanded, the primed and painted.

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